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Benzoin
Benzoin
Latin name
Styrax tonkinensis (Siam), Styrax benzoin (Sumatra)
Family
Storax family (Styracaceae)
Origin
Laos, Thailand, Vietnam; Sumatra (Indonesia)
Parts used
resin from cuts in the bark
Raw materials
resinoid, absolute
Extraction
solvent extraction
Olfactory group
amber, balsamic
Position in the pyramid
base
Synthetic substitutes
vanillin, benzyl benzoate, cinnamic esters

Benzoin is the resin of tropical Styrax trees growing in Southeast Asia. Cuts are made in the trunk, and over several months pale “tears” of resin harden there, looking like pieces of caramel.

How it smells: a warm, sweet, balsamic scent with shades of vanilla, caramel and a hint of cinnamon. Siam benzoin (Laos) is softer and more vanillic, Sumatra benzoin darker and more resinous, with a light smokiness.

Benzoin is one of perfumery's “glues”: it fixes other notes, smooths transitions and adds a warm golden sound to a fragrance. The amber accord and most cosy oriental compositions are hard to imagine without it.

What it pairs with: with vanilla and labdanum — classic amber, with incense and myrrh — solemn resinous compositions, with rose — a warm powdery rose, with cinnamon and tonka — gourmand fragrances, with sandalwood — a soft creamy base.

Good to know: benzoin has long been part of church and temple incense, and Siam benzoin naturally contains vanillin — which is why it is often described as “vanilla that grew on a tree”.

Fragrances with Benzoin

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