Fragrance classification by market
Why does one perfume cost as much as lunch in a café, and another as much as a piece of jewellery? It is not just the brand: every fragrance belongs to its own market segment, and that segment determines the raw materials, the quality, the production runs and the very purpose for which the perfume was created.
In short
- The perfume market is divided into 7 segments: mass-market, middle-market, luxury, selective lines, niche, artisan and indie perfumery.
- The higher the segment, the more rare natural raw materials, the smaller the production runs and the more complex the way the fragrance unfolds.
- The core of the MAY PARFUM catalogue is niche perfumery, along with selective luxury lines and artisan fragrances.
The 7 market segments in brief
| Code | Segment | Raw materials |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mass-market | mostly synthetics |
| 2 | Middle-market / Masstige | quality synthetics + more naturals |
| 3 | Luxury / Designer | expensive molecules and natural components |
| 4 | Selective / High luxury lines (Selective / Private Blends) | ingredients of the highest quality |
| 5 | Niche fragrances | rare raw materials: oud, iris, ambergris, frankincense |
| 6 | Author / Artisan fragrances | own tinctures and enfleurages |
| 7 | Indie brands | naturals + synthetics, avant-garde accords |
1. Mass-market
This is “fast consumption” perfumery, whose main goal is to reach the widest possible audience and sell in large volumes. Fragrances are built around current trends and focus groups so that they appeal to the majority. The compositions are usually simple, clear and straightforward — fresh, floral, fruity or aquatic. They do not set out to surprise, but rather to give a pleasant, familiar emotion.
Raw materials: Mostly synthetic components. This achieves two key goals: a low production cost and absolute consistency of the fragrance from batch to batch. Natural extracts are used, but only the cheapest ones.
Quality: Consistent, but without refinement. The fragrance sounds the same from beginning to end (a linear composition), without a complex interplay of notes. Longevity and sillage are usually low or moderate.
Production runs: Huge, counted in millions of bottles.
Examples of brands and compositions:
- Avon: Today, Tomorrow, Always; Little Black Dress; Far Away; Full Speed.
- Oriflame: Eclat, Giordani Gold, Divine, Possess.
- Zara: Red Temptation, Golden Decade, Vibrant Leather.
- Adidas, Puma, Nike — sports fragrances.
- Mexx, Antonio Banderas, Benetton — clothing brands.
Features: Maximum availability, a low price, frequent copying of successful luxury compositions. A good choice for everyday use.
In the MAY PARFUM catalogue: 4711
2. Middle-market / Masstige
“Affordable luxury”, or “masstige”. It offers higher quality and more interesting concepts than the mass-market, while remaining affordable.
Raw materials: A balanced combination of quality synthetics and a larger share of natural components.
Quality: Noticeably higher; the packaging is well thought out and the compositions are more complex.
Brand examples: Yves Rocher, L’Occitane, The Body Shop, Rituals, Victoria's Secret.
Features: The golden mean in price and quality. There are often matching products — shower gels and lotions with the same scent.
3. Luxury / Designer
Perfumery from the big fashion houses and cosmetics giants. It is not just a fragrance but part of an image.
Raw materials: High-quality synthetic molecules and expensive natural components.
Quality: High, with a clear division into top, heart and base notes.
Brand examples: Chanel, Dior, Guerlain, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Lancôme.
Features: Recognition, prestige, complex compositions and bottles. A luxury fragrance often becomes a person’s “signature”.
In the MAY PARFUM catalogue: Guerlain, Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Chloé, Bvlgari
4. Selective / High luxury lines (Selective / Private Blends)
Exclusive collections from luxury brands for an experienced audience, which are not advertised to the mass market.
Raw materials: Ingredients of the highest quality, with an emphasis on origin and uniqueness.
Quality: Exceptional; the fragrances are complex and long-lasting, and the bottles are works of art.
Brand examples: Tom Ford Private Blend, Dior La Collection Privée, Chanel Les Exclusifs, Armani Privé, Guerlain L'Art et la Matière.
Features: A bridge between luxury and niche — exclusivity under a trusted brand.
In the MAY PARFUM catalogue: Guerlain, Stefano Ricci, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford
5. Niche fragrances
Perfumery as art. The goal is to bring the perfumer’s creative idea to life, not mass sales.
Raw materials: Rare, expensive or unique components: oud, iris, ambergris, frankincense.
Quality: High or exceptional. The fragrance unfolds in a complex way.
Brand examples: Creed, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Amouage, Diptyque, Le Labo, Kilian.
Features: Creative freedom, unique stories behind the fragrances, a focus on the composition rather than on advertising.
In the MAY PARFUM catalogue: Amouage, Roja London, Boadicea the Victorious, Clive Christian, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Kilian Paris, Creed, Initio
6. Author / Artisan fragrances
One-of-a-kind handmade work. The fragrances are created by a single perfumer in small batches.
Raw materials: Hand-made tinctures and enfleurages, micro-batches of rare oils.
Quality: Very high, but it may vary from batch to batch.
Brand examples: Tauer Perfumes, Slumberhouse, Lorenzo Villoresi, Parfum d'Empire.
Features: Every fragrance is absolutely unique, with a “living” sound.
In the MAY PARFUM catalogue: Tauer Perfumes
7. Indie brands
Independent perfumery — experimental, bold and conceptual.
Raw materials: A combination of natural and synthetic components; they often create avant-garde accords (concrete after rain, vinyl, old books).
Quality: It varies, but the best are true masterpieces.
Brand examples: Zoologist Perfumes, Imaginary Authors, Kerosene, Pineward Perfumes.
Features: A strong idea, fragrances as experiences. This is where the boldest perfume concepts are born.
How to find out a fragrance’s segment on the MAY PARFUM website
The segment is the 2nd digit of the product code, and it matches the “Code” column in the table above. For example, the code “1507xxxx” means a niche fragrance (code 5) in Eau de Parfum concentration (code 07 — see the article “Fragrance concentration”).
