- Origin
- an accord composed by the perfumer (not fossil amber)
- Raw materials
- labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, styrax, tolu balsam
- Olfactory group
- amber (oriental)
- Position in the pyramid
- base
- Synthetic substitutes
- vanillin, amber molecules (Ambroxan, Cetalox)
Amber in perfume is neither fossil amber nor the “grey amber” from the ocean. Fossil amber has almost no smell. “Amber” is an accord — a blend the perfumer composes from warm resins and balsams: labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, styrax. The name comes from the French “ambre”, used both for fossil amber and for ambergris, and in perfumery for warm golden accords.
How it smells: a warm, sweetish, resinous, enveloping scent reminiscent of honey, caramel and sun-warmed skin. Amber is the heart of an entire fragrance family that used to be called “oriental” and is now called “amber”.
Every perfumer has their own amber recipe: for some it is powdery and vanillic, for others leathery and resinous, for others almost transparent, with musk. So two amber compositions can smell completely different.
What it pairs with: with vanilla and tonka — the cosiest fragrances, with oud and rose — oriental luxury, with patchouli — depth, with spices (cinnamon, cardamom) — the warmth of winter evenings, with sandalwood — softness. Amber almost always sits in the base and holds a fragrance for hours.
Good to know: to avoid confusion, perfumers often write “amber” for the accord and “ambergris” for the substance of marine origin — in our catalogue these are two separate notes.
Fragrances with Amber
