- Origin
- today an accord composed by the perfumer; historically a beaver secretion
- Raw materials
- synthetic reconstructions of castoreum
- Extraction
- synthesis
- Olfactory group
- animalic, leather
- Position in the pyramid
- base
- Synthetic substitutes
- birch tar, leather bases, isobutyl quinoline
Castoreum is one of the classic animalic notes of perfumery. Historically it was a secretion of beaver glands, which the animal uses to mark its territory. Modern perfumery recreates the note with synthetic accords.
How it smells: warm, leathery and faintly smoky: tanned leather, birch tar, a light sweetish and animalic shade. In small doses castoreum does not smell of an animal but adds depth, warmth and sensuality to a fragrance.
The leathery, tarry character of natural castoreum is linked to the beaver's diet: the animal feeds on tree bark, notably willow and birch. That is why perfumers recreate the note with birch tar and leather molecules.
What it pairs with: with leather — classic leather fragrances, with iris — powdery suede, with tobacco — dark evening compositions, with vanilla — a warm sensual base, with labdanum — dense amber.
Good to know: in the classic fragrances of the first half of the twentieth century castoreum was an important part of leather and chypre compositions — it gave them a warm, living trail.
